Morning light on the stepped ghats and temples of Varanasi, boats on the river

Uttar Pradesh, India · 25.32° N, 83.01° E

Varanasi

Eighty-four ghats, three thousand years of ritual and a river that is at once a highway, a temple and a crematorium.

Best time
October to March
Ideal length
3–4 days
Region
North India
Journeys from
₹54,000

Varanasi is overwhelming in the best sense. You don't see it so much as surrender to it — the bells, the smoke, the boatmen calling, the chai stalls wedged between temples.

We keep groups tiny here and always use the same two local guides, both born within a few streets of the river. They know when to talk and when to let the city speak.

The essentials are simple: the river at sunrise by rowing boat, the aarti at Dashashwamedh from a boat rather than the steps, and at least one morning lost in the lanes with no plan at all.

(02)When to go

October to March

Dev Deepawali, fifteen days after Diwali, lights every ghat with oil lamps — book months ahead. April to June is very hot.

  1. January: recommended
  2. February: recommended
  3. March: recommended
  4. April: not recommended
  5. May: not recommended
  6. June: not recommended
  7. July: not recommended
  8. August: not recommended
  9. September: not recommended
  10. October: recommended
  11. November: recommended
  12. December: recommended

(03)Don't miss

The moments worth the journey.

Wooden boats clustered on the Ganga below the ghats of Varanasi at dusk
Photo Martijn Vonk / Unsplash
  1. 01

    Sunrise on the Ganga

    A hand-rowed boat from Assi to Manikarnika as the city washes, prays and wakes up.

  2. 02

    Ganga Aarti

    Seen from the water, where you can take in the choreography without the crush on the steps.

  3. 03

    The lanes

    Silk weavers, lassi shops, hidden shrines and the best kachori sabzi before eight.

  4. 04

    Sarnath

    Where the Buddha gave his first sermon, twenty minutes and a world away from the ghats.

(04)From the road

  • Priests holding tiered brass lamps during the evening aarti, crowds behind
    Priests holding tiered brass lamps during the evening aarti, crowds behind
  • Young priests lifting fire lamps in unison on a Varanasi ghat at night
    Young priests lifting fire lamps in unison on a Varanasi ghat at night
  • Rowing boats pulled up at the water's edge as lights come on along the ghats
    Rowing boats pulled up at the water's edge as lights come on along the ghats
  • Tall old buildings rising straight out of the river at Varanasi
    Tall old buildings rising straight out of the river at Varanasi

Next destination · Uttarakhand, India

Rishikesh & Kedarnath