Key Monastery on its conical hill above the braided Spiti river and snow-dusted ranges

Himachal Pradesh, India · 32.23° N, 78.07° E

Spiti Valley

Villages at 4,000 metres, monasteries older than most countries and a valley that still runs on its own clock.

Best time
June to October
Ideal length
9–12 days
Region
Himalaya
Journeys from
₹58,000

Spiti means 'the middle land' — between India and Tibet, and in many ways between centuries. It is harder to reach than Ladakh and, for now, far less visited.

We go in from Shimla through Kinnaur, climbing gradually past apple orchards and the Sutlej gorge, so that by the time you reach Tabo and Kaza your body has caught up with the road.

Nights are spent in family-run homestays and small guesthouses. Expect thick quilts, a wood stove, dal made with peas grown behind the house, and a host who knows exactly which bend the ibex like.

(02)When to go

June to October

Kunzum Pass usually opens in June. Late September and October are crisp and clear. Winter trips (January–February) are possible for snow leopard tracking, with the right gear.

  1. January: not recommended
  2. February: not recommended
  3. March: not recommended
  4. April: not recommended
  5. May: not recommended
  6. June: recommended
  7. July: recommended
  8. August: recommended
  9. September: recommended
  10. October: recommended
  11. November: not recommended
  12. December: not recommended

(03)Don't miss

The moments worth the journey.

Dhankar, the old capital of Spiti, clinging to eroded cliffs
Photo Nomad Bikers / Unsplash
  1. 01

    Key Monastery

    A thousand years old and stacked on its hill like a sandcastle. Stay for evening prayers.

  2. 02

    Langza & Hikkim

    Fossils in the fields, a painted Buddha over the valley and the world's highest post office.

  3. 03

    Dhankar

    The former capital, balanced on eroded pinnacles above the meeting of the Spiti and Pin.

  4. 04

    Chandratal

    The 'moon lake' at 4,300 metres. We camp a respectful distance away and walk in at dawn.

(04)From the road

  • Clear, shallow water of Chandratal lake with bare mountains on the far shore
    Clear, shallow water of Chandratal lake with bare mountains on the far shore
  • The painted gompa at Giu village near the Tibetan border
    The painted gompa at Giu village near the Tibetan border
  • Dhankar Gompa above the confluence of the Spiti and Pin rivers
    Dhankar Gompa above the confluence of the Spiti and Pin rivers
  • A painted Buddha statue facing the mountains above Langza
    A painted Buddha statue facing the mountains above Langza

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